Build a Gallows Floor by dreadwilliam.

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Step by step illustrated plan for realistic fully operating gallows floor with clamshell doors. Updated 12/01/08.

Step 1 The Trapdoor Frame

Using a tablesaw, rip 3/4x3/4 timber stock. This will be used for main framework. I use alder for the trap frame and douglas fir for all other framing.

Using a bandsaw or mitersaw, cut to any length, so long as they are the same length, four pieces for the trap frame.

Lay out the four pieces and draw a line 3/4" from the ends.

Draw lengthwise 3/8" from the edge to the lines you drew previously. Do this on all four frame members and saw out the enscribed waste.

All four frame members must be identicle. You may have to try out each joint for fit and precision and file until consistency is achieved.

Your finished trap frame should look like this when tried out. When you are satisfied with the fit, use frame clamps and small c-clamps to secure the glued joints. Your steel hardware, made in the next steps, will be secured to this frame.

Step #2. Release hardware

Using 1/8" steel stock and a hack saw, manufacture, file and drill until you have two of each of these parts shown in the insert. Hole size will depend on your wood screw and rivet thicknesses.

Cut four pieces of coathanger wire the same length as your frame sides. This wire is soft and takes a hammer blow fairly well. These will become the linkages between the parts you just made.

Using a ball peen hammer while holding the wire with pliers, over an anvil, bang on the end with the flat part of the hammer. Be careful not to hit too hard or you may rip the steel. Do this on one end of each wire piece.

The ends should look like this when you are done. If they don't, you can use a file or sander to make them nice and smooth.

Drill rivet hole at the end. I use 3d finish nails as rivets, because they flatten easily.

After measuring out the lengths you will actually use, repeat on the other ends. You will end up with a list of parts like this. Lever has been added.

These images are used as examples for measuring and laying out your hardware.

After mounting is fixed, it is best to remove it all for the remaining construction to reduce the risk of damage to the links.

Next step, Framing the Floor

Frame the rest of the floor with 3/4" timbers and 3/8x3/4" studs. There were no safety codes at the time, but use your head. Safety must be considered in all capital punishment scenarios.

Next step. The Doors.

Using the ripsaw, slice off 1/8" "planks" for your floorboards and door parts.

I made mine from an aged cedar board for a darkened edge effect.

Construct doors as shown.

Here you can see the angle used to support the "top" door on the "bottom" door.

Notice the frame at the edge of the bottom door. This keeps the doors from sagging and contacts the hardware.

Note also the steel pins protruding from the sides. These are the hinge pins and should be centered down the thickness.

Remove the steel pins and mock up the doors into their frame.

Clamp planks firmly on the top and bottom sides of the door frame. Construct two short planks to go up and down along the door frame. These will be the hinge tops.

Clamp the hinge top into a vice and using a dremel, make grooves that corespond to the hingepin locations of the doors, as shown

Next step. Planking the Floor.

Glue down planking in a manner that allows the hinge tops to be easily removed to service or remove doors.

Be sure to include a slot to slide the release lever through.

Reinstall your hardware and doors and use countersunk screws on your hinge tops.

Remember, in the world there have been many different designs for the gallows frame and the beam the ropes hang from.

This floor however can be used on all of them. This hardware design can also be used with little modification to open two single doors at once if you should prefer group executions.